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Cuentos del Cuy (Guinea Pig Tales)

We first locked eyes in northern Peru. I was a wanderer, a traveler, free to kick my feet on the dusty streets of the market. He was behind bars, desolate and longing for the freedom that I simply took for granted.

cuy market

And then, just days later, I found myself roaming the majestic hilltop of Kuelap, home to the ancient Chachapoya, or ‘cloud-people’, who resisted the bloodthirsty Inca for centuries. There, at the foot of their crumbling circular dwellings, lay tiny tunnels where the Chachapoya kept his ancestors enslaved below their beds.

kuelap guinea run

kuelap 4

lostworld - kuelap-7 2

Then, at last, we embraced. A friend and I were famished from a hike to a secluded waterfall, and took shelter in plastic chairs on the dirt floor of a small restaurant. It was the grandmotherly owner/chef/waitress who tossed him onto our table. He landed gracefully.

He was more beautiful than I had expected, but also smaller and slimmer, more rat than cat. I gently caressed his back for a few moments — but he, knowing his fate and that of millennia of his ancestors in these mountains, swiftly tap-danced his way to the edge of the table. The señora threw a weathered hand over his loin and returned our friend to the kitchen.

cuy on table

That evening saw the end of our Peruvian affair. I’d like to think I was motivated more by history than hunger. After all, without the Eurasian staples of chicken, cow, and pig, what other domesticated sources of protein did the pre-Colombian Andes have? It fell to this petite creature (with the help of llamas and alpacas) to feed entire civilizations from modern-day Chile to Colombia. So who was I to reject savoring a piece of history, fried with a side of cheesy potatoes?

fried cuy
eating the cuy head

Maybe I should have.  Bland and bony, it’s hard to picture him providing much pleasure or protein to the Incan legions who conquered the Andes and then defended them against the Spanish. I liked him better alive.

Postscript: We met again on the streets of Bogotá, Colombia. I, to my credit, was less cruel this time. I gambled 1,000 pesos that he would enter the purple box. He entered the red one.

cuy race

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Panhandling in the Andes

Off the Gringo Trail, Chapter 1.

On the road between Andahuaylas and Abancay, in the Peruvian Andes.

On the road between Andahuaylas and Abancay, in the Peruvian Andes.

“Hola.”

“Hola.” The small boys in school uniforms had finally worked up the courage to approach me, a strange-looking man in a town of indigenous faces and colorfully-adorned women carrying the day’s haul on their arched backs.  I was tucked away in a dark corner of the bus station, now surrounded by wide eyes.

¿Usted es musico? You’re a musician?”

“Yeah, I guess.” I had been playing Sublime songs on my mini-guitar for the past hour, waiting for a delayed bus.

“Ok, great. Do you know Nirvana?”

“Uh, wait, Nirvana? Like the band?”

“Si.”

“Ha!” The shock bolted from my mouth. An hour before, a woman sitting next to me hadn’t understood me in Spanish, so a man had to translate into Quechua. Just hours before that, I was sitting on a lakeside bench surrounded by llamas, talking with a peasant teenager about her parents’ struggling potato farm on the side of a mountain. This mini-guitar tends to put people at ease and give them an excuse to approach foreign-looking me and just talk. She wanted to know what the United States was like — I failed to come up with an answer that fit into three sentences.

llama and I

I was overjoyed with my new diminutive audience. “Yeah, of course I know Nirvana. Do YOU guys know Nirvana?

“Yes! We love them. Can you play ‘Come As You Are’?”

“Ha, I’m not sure I remember how. But do you know this one?” I played ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’. They hadn’t reacted by the first chorus. I stopped.

“Just one second, sir. I will go get the lyrics.” Good lord, what is going on here?

The group leader returned with a printout of the lyrics to ‘Come As You Are’. Apparently, their English teacher had been using the song as an exercise in class. I held myself back from inquiring as to the value of being able to say “And I swear that I don’t have a gun” as a 10-year-old in rural Peru.

My fingers fleshed out one of most popular basslines of the last 20 years, and thus began what I’d like to think is the first and only grunge singalong session with the descendants of the Inca in Abancay, Peru.

guitalele

We talked and laughed a bit, and the boys finally disappeared back up the stairs to catch their bus. A tiny girl who had been lurking behind them took this as a cue to make her approach. She was maybe seven, in shabby clothes, with a splash of dirt covering her beautiful pink cheeks.

She shuffled her tiny feet towards me, reached out a tiny arm, and tried to give me a coin.

I didn’t know what to do. I didn’t have a hat out, and I wasn’t ready for this.

“No, no, gracias! That’s very kind of you, but please, it’s not necessary.” Blushing, I escaped quickly into a rendition of ‘Badfish’.

She crumpled her forehead, stared for a moment, and disappeared.

Ten minutes passed, and she was back. Again she shuffled her tiny feet towards me, leaned on a concrete pillar, and waited for a break between songs. I stopped.

“Hola.”

“Hola.”

“Do you like this music?” I asked her.

“Yes.”

“What kind of music do you listen to?”

“Umm, I don’t know.

“Ok.”

Pero, em… ¿Usted no tiene casa? 

But, um, you don’t have a home?”

I wasn’t part of the world she knew. She likely had never seen, and definitely had never interacted with, a person as physically different as me, a person with no local blood or dress, but rather light skin, light hair, a large nose, bizarre clothes, and an accent that doesn’t come from any of the surrounding regions. She may have never seen anybody play music just to play music. And she had certainly never needed to grasp a concept as alien as leaving everything and everyone on one side of the planet to simply explore and see and spend money on another side of the planet.

I failed to come up with an answer that fit into three sentences.

winding through the andes

A (Statistical) Travel Snapshot – SOUTH AMERICA

2012:  Six months in Colombia and five months backpacking through South America.

How does one sum a year abroad?

I threw it all into one big list when I got back from Asia.  Here it goes with South America.

COUNTRIES:  6
Colombia • Peru • Argentina
Ecuador • Chile • Uruguay
bienvenidos

PLACES VISITED: 67
Los Angeles -> Bogotá -> Cali -> Tumaco -> Medellin -> Rionegro -> Florencia -> Caquetá countryside -> Tuluá -> Buenaventura -> Golfo Tortugas -> Cartagena -> Villa de Leyva -> Santa Marta -> Tayrona -> San Gil -> Bogotá -> Quito -> Canoa -> Montañita -> Guayaquil -> Máncora -> Zorritos -> Chiclayo -> Chachapoyas -> Kuelap -> Gocta/San Pablo -> Trujillo -> Huanchaco -> Lima -> Ica -> Huacachina -> Nazca -> Andahuaylas -> Pacucha -> Pampachiri -> Bosque de Piedras -> Abancay -> Cuzco -> Aguas Calientes -> Machu Picchu -> Puno -> Lake Titicaca -> Arequipa -> Arica -> Iquique -> San Pedro de Atacama -> La Serena -> Santiago -> Valparaiso -> Viña del Mar -> El Yeco -> Buenos Aires -> Bariloche -> El Bolsón -> Lago Puelo -> Mendoza -> Maipu -> Mina Clavere -> Nono -> Córdoba -> Puerto Iguazu -> Iguazu Falls -> Rosario -> Colonia -> Montevideo -> Punta del Este -> La Barra -> Piriapolis -> Montevideo -> Los Angeles.

NATIONALITIES MET:  39
Colombian  Venezuelan  Filipino  German  Austrian  French  Australian  American  Canadian  Peruvian  Ecuadorian  Chilean  Belgian  Danish  Dutch  English  Scottish  Finnish  Italian  Spanish  Croatian  Bosnian  Irish  Icelandic  Mexican  Japanese  Argentinian  Brazilian  [Basque]  [Quebecois]  Uruguayan  Paraguayan  Portuguese  Swiss  Ukrainian  Israeli  Malaysian  Costa Rican  Chinese

TRANSPORT:  
Airplanes: Dozens while working in Colombia, none afterward.
Boats: 8
Buses: I’d like to forget.
Trains: Are there any in South America?
Road Trips: 3
Bicycles: 3
transport

LANDSCAPES:  
Mountains:
13 different parts of the Andes.
Beaches: 19 (20 if you include an Argentinian river beach)

PROBLEMS:  
Things lost/stolen/magically vanished:

Frisbee.  Camera.  Swim trunks.  Towel.
Weight lost/stolen/magically vanished: 10 lbs.
Stomach issues: Lots.
Mosquitos killed with hotel bibles: 137.

COOL ANIMALS:  
Toucans. Llamas. Guinea Pigs. Birds with, um, blue feet. That big strange rodent that runs around Iguazu Falls.
animals

SOUNDTRACK:
Mumford and Sons – “Babel”
Noah and the Whale – “Last Night on Earth”
Jorge Drexler – Various
Kele Goodwin – “Hymns”
Passion Pit – “Gossamer”
Radical Face – “Family Tree”
Gustavo Santaolla – “Diarios de Motocicleta”

BEST JAM SESSIONS:
Irish singalongs with Irishmen in Huacachina
Teaching Peruvian kids in Chachapoyas
Playing with indigenous instruments in Argentina

music

HOLIDAYS SPENT:  
Oktoberfest in a beer-hall in Lima
Halloween in hostels and streets and bars in Cuzco
Thanksgiving with a real turkey in Santiago
Christmas with vegetarian food and gifts and la novia in the cold Andes of Argentina
New Years with local wine and besos from the novia in Mendoza

WEIRDEST FOOD EATEN:
Fried large-butted ants (Colombia)
Fried guinea pig (Peru)

food

FAVORITE FOODS:
Fresh fish with coconut sauce (Pacific coast Colombia)
Ceviche (Peru)
Fru-fru Peruvian-Japanese fusion restaurants (Lima)
Fruit I’ve never heard of (Colombia)

FAVORITE DRINKS:
Pisco sours (better in Peru than in Chile, sorry!)
Coca tea (Peru)
Red wine (Chile)
Canelazo (Colombia)
Any juice in Colombia (try: Guanabana, Maracuyá, and Lulo for starters)
drinks